Condensate drain cleared
The drain that stops a puddle turning into a ceiling. A trap and an overflow switch go in at the same visit.
Refrigerant topped up
One to three pounds of R-410A. Most land between $250 and $580. If it needs it again next summer, it is leaking, and topping it up is the expensive way to lose.
Run capacitor replaced
The part that gives the compressor and fan the kick to start. It is the single most common reason an outdoor unit hums and never turns over.
Contactor replaced
The relay that closes power to the outdoor unit. Burnt or welded points mean the condenser sits there silent while the thermostat calls.
Blower wheel pulled and cleaned
A wheel caked in dust moves a fraction of the air it should, which is most of the “runs all day, never cools” calls.
Thermostat replaced
Standard through smart. Wired, mounted and on your phone before we leave.
Defrost board replaced
Heat pumps only. It is the board that decides when to melt the ice off the outdoor coil.
Control board replaced
The brain in the furnace or air handler. When it goes, nothing downstream of it does what it is told.
Blower motor replaced
The indoor fan. Most land around $1,500. The spread is whether it is a standard motor or a variable-speed one.
Condenser fan motor replaced
The fan on top of the outdoor unit. If it stops and the compressor keeps running, the repair gets more expensive by the minute.
Refrigerant leak found and repaired
Finding it, fixing it, then recharging the system. This is the repair a yearly top-up is quietly costing you more than.
$1,850 to $2,700
or $31/mo at 0% APR for 60 months
Compressor replaced, part under warranty
Labor and refrigerant, when the manufacturer still covers the part. Worth checking before anyone quotes you a system.
$1,900 to $2,500
or $32/mo at 0% APR for 60 months
Compressor replaced, out of warranty
The big one, and the point where replacing the system usually wins the argument. We give you both numbers.
$2,200 to $5,100
or $37/mo at 0% APR for 60 months