Over half the owner homes in Hamilton’s ZIP heat with electricity, which here mostly means a heat pump, and nearly all of them are detached houses. What stands out is the spread. About four houses in ten were built before 1980 and about four in ten since 2000. The median owner home is from 1988, but that number hides a lot. We think of Hamilton as three towns of equipment, and the repair depends on which one you are in.
In the oldest houses, the heat pump was added to a house that started with something else, and the ducts, the wiring and the thermostat are all older than the pump. On those jobs a failure is as likely to be a tired blower or a loose connection as the refrigerant system, and we trace it step by step. If the pump predates 2010 its label may say R-22, which the EPA stopped making in 2020, and big leaks on those are where we talk about replacing it.
The 1980s and 90s houses are where the capacitor and contactor calls come from. Those parts wear with every start, and a heat pump starts all year, summer and winter alike. A hum with a fan that won’t turn is the classic sign, and it is a quick, cheap fix if you shut the unit off before the motor cooks. The newest pumps, set in the last twenty years, show up with sensor and board faults, and those are mostly worth repairing.
Out in the country a heat pump that won’t restart after a power outage is a real call. Switch the thermostat off, wait a few minutes, and turn it back on before you decide it is broken; a compressor often needs that pause. If it still won’t start, the cause is usually a breaker, the contactor or a safety lockout, and we check them in that order.